Cornucopia, Wisconsin , don't blink

Cornucopia, Wisconsin
July 16, 2009
Marcia’s Home Town. We arrived here and stayed at a new camp ground..no one else here but us wow…campers go wild! We have spent three days visiting with Marcia’s cousins (Walley and his wife Coleen, Delores- the “seniors of their family now”) and other friends in town. We also saw Hillary’s God -Mother’s(Sheri who was also a child hood friend) mother..Dorothy Swensen. She is still looking great and renting cabins and says she is 29(+). We promised to come back for her 100th birthday..but she didn’t say when that would be. “Cornie” is a great town that you would be proud to be from or visit. Very small: one gas station(for sale if you want a new business), post office(the most Northern in Wisconsin), general store (Elhers..wood floors and a nail bin) and two taverns(“Fish Lips” and “Village Inn”..we played pool and ate at the former). Lots (who knows how many that is) of folks are retiring here… but not if you need Walmart or Home Depot! We spent time visiting Marcia’s old “home”. Her Dad sold the property on Lake Superior(150+ acres..1200+ lake frontage, cliffs on the lake with sandy beaches) in order to retire, many years ago. House has been torn down and another is being built…no character like her old one and in a different place. The picture is Marcia standing where her front door step was and the view is something that she took for granted growing up. Not so now. We walked the grounds and got nostalgic. As Marcia said..”Great to be around other people who speak like me!”
So, we’ll be off to Sault Ste Marie and then across Canada to home. I will have put on about 13K miles by the time we are home. Wow. What a road trip. I’ll spend some time reflecting on all of this. I am looking forward to getting back, but it is a bit bitter sweet getting back..I do hate to admit. Eight cord of wood waiting to be cut and split.

Mountains a rear view mirror memory

Banff, Alberta
July 10, 20009
Ok..so I lied. Our next posting is not Whitehorse, YT. It is all the way back to Banff, which was not on the agenda, so to speak. We just started to drive out of Whitehorse, a beautiful day, and figured out a new way back down. The route is the “one less travelled”..The Cassiar Hwy(#37). It tracks down from outside Watson Lake, in between the coastal mountains and the Canadian Rockies. It starts on a gravel road that makes you really question the sanity of your decision, when you are responsible for 4 axles and tires in the middle of no where. I was constantly wondering how good my AAAPlus policy was after a set of pot holes. But we did manage them. Ironically, I got a flat tire pulling in to the campground after two days of rough road. It was caused by a screw, not a sharp rock. After all the miles of rocks and I get a flat because man made refuse…a message in there. The road connected with HWY16, came in the “back way”, West side, of Jasper. Pouring rain, but still beautiful. We treated our selves to an eat-out..a local sports bar and watched a ball game on the big screen..wow. Haven’t seen TV since May1 ! We then cruised down the Ice Field Parkway to Banff. Rain lifted…drop dead beautiful. I am sure we came this way, as opposed to cutting quicly to Edmonton, as we really hate to leave the mountains. This will be our last mountain fix, before they are only rear view mirror memories.
We started taking pictures of signs with wild life warnings..look out for moose /caribou.bear/,etc. We have seen so few mammals, our best documentation is the signs warning us. What’s that all about?
Since visiting Banff back in May, I have put 7500 miles on the rig. Overall, we have driven about 10,500 miles so far. A bit of road time. The dogs won’t know what to do with themselves with more space (nor us). Mickie is still not weight bearing, but seems to have less pain. Gretta loves to point the ground squirrels out side the trailer here. Marcia and are going hiking after our breakfast.
July 13, 2009
Ok, I really lied, about posting (mabe fish sizes too). It has been so hard to find a place to up-load a posting. Most places we started to go had no signals of any king. Actually a good thing, from a “quiet” perspective. We had gotten into the habit of “dry-camping”, choosing spots with no services, but great location. Low to no cost, but also no signal. Anyway…we are not in the mountains anymore. We drove out of the Rockies, heading east, decided to head for cheaper gas ($1.25/G less), cell phone signal, internet signals…you got back to the US. Yesterday we came through “North Portal” , North Dakota and then to Minot, ND (where we are right now….really). I was here at the strat of this trip on my way west. So my “loop” back to here(Minot,ND) has been 9359 miles. The forcast is for rain and severe T storms, so we will take our time going east. We want to catch a reunion in Marcia’s home town, Cornucopia, Wisconsin, so that will be our last “goal” before home.
The pictures are of a hike in Banff, and the beautiful prairies.

Fish,GoodbyAlaska,Hello Yukon

Dawson City, Yukon
July 3, 2009
Greetings from the famous Yukon Gold Rush town of Dawson City of 1896. (I’ll do a bit of editing in my favorite color[Rick])You’d swear it’s still in the old days, as we had to be ferried across the Yukon River to reach the city on its shores. Still very quaint, with dance hall, gold mining throughout the area. As for wild life: we only saw one rabbit since we left Fairbanks, about 250 miles ago! The birding is good though compared to the coast. This morning we enjoyed watching a white-winged cross-bill dad feeding his newly fledged babies on a tree next to our trailer.
This morning we left the Alaska U.S. border behind us(in the remote hills. Marcia was smirking at the border agent when asked about guns and we almost got seriously strip searched, until they figured we weren’t the average gun toting Alaskan.), completing that chapter. Taking another way, the “Top of the World “ Highway, which consists of 65 graveled miles of the 120(it felt like 500miles because of the pot holes, dust, and meeting other vehicles in the most inopportune times). Most of it was hairpin curves over mountains and hill above the tree line. It is REALLY REMOTE, and one can see for miles(if you are looking out the side window…not for the next pot hole!), like being on top of the world!
After we provisioned in Fairbanks, the interior big town of 100,000, we stayed at a local borough called North Pole, with all the trappings of Christmas. Almost as amusing as visiting the village of “chicken”, but I won’t go there!

Rick finally slaughtered me in the fishing department(let’s just say I had “my turn”), our second to last night in Alaska, called Clearwater River, located near Delta Junction. We stumbled across a world class trophy river for grayling, that was ACTUALLY peaking during our 24 hour visit. Rick and I caught 12 the afternoon and into the evening hours of 10:30! Just steps from our trailer! These were all fish 14-18 inches long, unlike the smaller ones we caught earlier in the trip. On the morning of our departure, we got up early and Rick caught 7 big graylings while I got skunked(it was really tough saying “oh..I guess I have another one”). He really deserves to have a good “gloat” on that one, as he usually has to assemble all my gear(the arrival afternoon I had caught four and Marcia, spinning, said “can I use a dry fly with this?” No. So I say I’ll rig up a rod…I didn’t know I meant new line,leaders,etc..then she turns around and out fishes me for THAT day), and consult on my meager casting skills. Being the good “Ranger Rick” that he is, he usually gives me the best spots cause I am so “casting-challenged”. What a wonderful 24 hours of dream-fishing, totally deserted of other fisherman, given no mosquitos, and 70 degree sunny weather.
Believe it or not, yesterday was the first day we wore shorts, and about the 4th day it was warm and calm enough to grill outside. Dawson City is like “Florida”. 80F…sunny, hot. Wow. The camp ground had a vehicle wash that was mandatory requirement for post Taylor Road travel. Anyway. Gotta post this find a fish picture. Next stop, big town wise and posting wise, probably Whitehorse YT.

Moose and a great pond

MILE 48 POND
Chena Hot Springs Road
Above Fairbanks
June 28, 2009 Sunday
We slid through Fairbanks, got some must need groceries (toilet paper, bread, scotch, and some other stuff that really didn’t seem all that important to me..but hey..what do I know?!)
It is beautiful up here. We found this place, with the help of a good map and local advice. It is a State recreation area, great little ponds(one on each side of the trailer, and Grayling and rainbows in each. Tough choice. A bit buggy if no breeze, but no real problem for folks from Maine. For the first couple of nights we were the only ones camping (“boondoggling”-“squatting”-not paying anything. It is great for the budget and the fact there are no services is great. We have gotten so used to being self-contained, that it is the “norm” now.
We have seen about 8-10 moose here, some interesting ducks and a plover. Not to mention lots of nesting birds that “bomb” Mick and Gretta when they are out. We even have a resident moma moose and her calf. We watched her trying to teach swimming to the calf the other day. The calf really wasn't too keen on it. Did lots of "bleating", as if to say "hey mom, I'll just walk". The girls spend most of the time in the trailer as the bugs would carry them away, if they stayed out, all the time. Mick is still not putting weight on her left rear leg. The good thing is her right rear leg(which “was” here bad leg) is getting stronger. I’m afraid the left will need an ACL repair if this lameness persists. Oh well.
So we will head to Fairbanks later today. Do some major “staging” for the return trip. Trailer bears need repacking, a new tire too. Fix a few things. Truck needs routine servicing and tire rotation, etc. We will do some major grocery re supply, as it is so expensive in the Yukon and British Columbia. We will leaveFairbanks early next week and plan to be in Chicken, Alaska (look it up) for the Fourth of July. Should be interesting.
Hang in there…`

Denali NP and a walk in the snow

Denali National Park
June25, 2009 ?Thursday
I hate to say it is tough keeping track of which day is which. But it is. Our best camping spots are usually Sunday night through Friday. No competition from those folks who are at work. (Nor rubbing it in…) The first couple of days we stayed outside the park, next to Ernie and Shary, from Rangeley. It was really great to see “neighbors” way up here. We had a great BBQ, and commiserated about fuel costs. They will stay until the end of the Summer, where as, we are getting close to the end.
When we arrived at DNP we tried to get into Teklaneeka Camp Ground (mile 29 into the park), the farthest you can go with a trailer/own vehicle, and only with a “special pass”. They only give out a specific number and it is usually by reservation. When we were making enquires months ago, we told “no problem”..no one is here when you want to come”. Well, you can guess..when we arrive at Park Headquarters’ our quest for a pass was met with “all booked up”. But we were told to check for cancellations..after two days, there was one and we got in. It was great because we had stayed the 4 night minimum, could not use the truck. Behing our trailer was a river wash with great hiking to local hills. We did have to be dutiful with our “hey bear” calls. Their traks were evident everywhere, as were wolf tracks. The dogs were not allowed off the camp ground loop road, and never off leash as there were more important 4 legged mammals in the neighborhood, and I don’t mean small “chatty” dogs.We got around the park on the shuttle bus. Even going out by Wonder lake was only a 6 hour round trip (Dog bladder’s last 6-8 hours…I wish mine did!). On our travels in and through the park we saw 6 sets grizzly sow and 2 cubs each, bull and cow moose(plural), grouse, lots a rabbits, Dahle sheep, golden eagles, and I am sure Marcia could an a few “vertebrates” to the list. We did a Ranger guided hike up Cathedral Mountain..and just for our entertainment we woke to rain that day..which switched over to snow during the climb. The picture says it all. The sun came out the day we left the park and we finally saw the big view:Denali. Beautiful. Bugs not bad... compared to Maine standards.
We are next going to head up Chena Hot Springs Road(above Fairbanks). Do some fishing(I hope a little catching), “boondoogling”, and check out the moose.

Talkeetna and a Fish

Talkeetna, Alaska
June 19, 2009 Friday
The curse has ended: Rick finally caught a nice sockeye salmon and two rainbow while we are in Talkeetna. We found out what the “catching fish” problem is: One of us has to be the sacrificial goat. (and therefore, no one is there to photo and document the catch) I was doing laundry and errands durring his successful solo fishing jaunt. The day before it worked too—I was visiting galleries and did a painting, while he caught 2 nice rainbows in the Upper Montana.
Besides known for its climbing excusions to Mt. McKinely and plane-trip charters to Denali Park, Talkeetna is known as the “the quaint little drinking town that has a fishing problem.” The flowers are finally coming to peak, and it is such a pleasure to hike in alpine meadows.
Prior to Talkeetna, We did have more frutstrating fishing exper iences driving up from coastal Seward, at the Kasilof River, Willow River (where I caught a smolt little bigger than my fly) and L. Montana. For you non-fisherman, these are all famous rivers. Unfortunately the King Salmon run is very weak this year. Our hopes were dashed once again, after a day on Clear Creek, which needs a “jet-boat dropoff. I hooked and lost 4 kings(spin rod) and Rick(fly rod) hooked and lost 2 kings. A small comfort was landing a dolly Varden that day. Just have to be content with the thrill of playing those 35 lb. fish for several minutes each.
While on the Clear Creek, our beloved lab Mickey apparently tore out her ACL on her “good hind leg”, so she is confined to the trailer until we get back to Maine. It looks like her hunting days are over.
The upside of coming too early to Alaska, is that there are hardly any mosquitos, June is the sunniest and driest month, and campground accommodations do not need advance reservations. But Talkeetna was the first time it was warm enough to grill outside. Boy did that fresh salmon taste good. The Inland is much warmer than the coast. We have had only two half-days of rain!
Now we are on our way up to Denali Park and meeting our Rangeley friends , Sheri Oldham and Ernie. Looking forward to hiking and more photography. If we get another rainy day, maybe another painting in the Park.
Best Fishes
Marcia and Rick

June 12, 2009 Friday
Seward , Alaska
We had to leave Homer, no we didn’t break any laws, but Marcia was outfishing me so bad…I just couldn’t take it anymore. She caught the King I posted last time. Then she went on a halibut charter( I stayed”home” to catch my King- got skunked! Da---T”), but she came home after catching 16 halibut, the largest 35lb! Our freezer is full. Guess what we are having for supper..today, tomorrow, and….
So, I know I can drive the truck. So we left. The fish (Kings were not running anywhere, so we ended up over here in Seward. Great town. We were here with Don and Marge Miller a few years ago. We had a great time then and are doing so now. We have hiked the Harding Glacier(I can’t can’t catch fish, but I can put one foot in front of the other going up hill!) (again hiked ..first time with Don and Marge), but now we met with snow 2/3 of the way up. Still a great day (you can see from the pic). Then we followed that with a “twofer” nature cruise into Ialik Bay and the Holgard Glacier. Lots of seals, sea lions, puffins, whales, a couple of orcas, all despite the foggy day and drizzle. We found a local guy who did day care with Mick and Gretta, while we were gone. Boy, did they have a great time. Played all day with other dogs, had some intelligent conversation (I’m sure), then came home (to our trailer), to eat and sleep. Oh yeahh…a dogs life.
So next we plan to go to the inland areas. We have had about 10 days of wind and 45F weather. Time to warm up and dry out..and mabe I can catch some fish. Fish count: I hate to say this(manhood points quite diminished)…Marcia ahead in count and way ahead in pounds caught. I’m going to have to catch a new countable/sport fish called the “salmonoid goodyearus” to catch up in weight!
Hang in there…next wi-fi I find..I’ll post (if the count gets better).